Travel in India
Travel in India is an experience that affects most foreign travellers. Whilst the standard of coaches, air travel frequency have improved drastically and first class train travel has always been good, the roads are increasingly clogged and newer highways do little to stop an articulated truck taking a short cut against the flow of traffic.
Road Transport in India
Behaviour on the roads will not change quickly but there are some positives. Back in 1991 when the economy first started to open up, buses rarely came straight at you but crabbed in a unique fashion. Local buses have not improved much but tourist buses are now often air conditioned with a seat for each person and luggage stowed. This does not guarantee a chauffuer and drivers may still be of the 'Banzai' variety. We have noticed an increasing awareness of getting there safely being preferable to hours of seat gripping tension. Up in the mountains things can get really hairy but travelling up a moutain pass on the roof was great fun.
Car ownership is growing rapidly and congestion in major cities is catching up with the rest of Asia. Cities such as Delhi have added many flyovers and modern traffic lights which do help the flow. The new metro system is very good and took 100,000 cars out of the central area when inaugerated. Workers in the Connaught Place area and Delhi University students seem particularly happy. The metro along with the reduced emissions of LPG powered buses and three wheelers. (All public carriers must use LPG) means that floors above the 8th on taller buildings in Delhi are now visible and there is view from some of the better hotels.
Taking a taxi is still a lottery but it is unikely that you will travel in India without using either a taxi or "scootie" (three wheeled, powered rickshaw). Cars are still often the Hindustan Ambassador which ofen requires a 45 degree driving position. More and more taxis are of newer designs such as the Tata Indica (very cramped), Toyota Qualis (roomy but the homicidal drivers choice) or a 4x4 Safari or Scorpio. Negotiation is expected. Always pay in Rupees and use the meter if fitted.
I love driving in India but I have family there, have much experience and am fully insured. You can hire cars but if you can afford it - get a driver. Avoid driving at night as there are more trucks and drinking is a serious culture with truckers!
It is possible to buy a motorcycle and many backpackers find the allure of an Enfield Bullet too much to resist. You should have a motorcycle licence (this can be got around) but you must have comprehensive medical insurance. Me, well I've always changed gear on the left so the Yamaha 350 for me. The helmet was bought in Delhi but I would have liked my Arai on the hills. No helmet is a buzz but suicide in town, and illegal, but you'll see plenty without in rural areas.
Rail Travel in India
The railways are slow but late far less often than they were. First Class seat are well worth it if you can afford to. Waiter service, air conditioning and reclining seats. If not the sleeper trains are pretty good and save on hotel bills. They are usually friendly in first or second class BUT ALWAYS have a chain and padlock and fasten you bags to something solid and sleep with valuables on you. Thieves always look for the easiest targets. A female friend also woke up to find a hand inside her bra. This should be met with a loud and angry response. There is always someone decent on the train and men like this do back down. Don't expose flesh in rural areas or in lower class carriages.
There are some real surprises on the train front with some narrow gauge rails still incommercial use such as in Gwalior or the Kalka to Shimla link. Again go for the best tickets you can stretch to.
Tickets can bow be booked on line across the national network. www.irctc.co.in
You will need to sign up but tickets can be delivered to your hotel or printed out if the hotel will help or in an internet cafe. Tickets are often wait listed. Unless there is a festival or a very popular tourist route, a wait list of 12 or less for first class and 2nd class sleeper and 25 or less for others often comes through. This is because travel agents will buy tickets and then return them last minute. BEWARE of touts if you arrive with a wait listed ticket. Go to the station Ticket Master - DO NOT follow anyone out of the station to a Travel Agent or other!
Air Travel in India
Again has improved. Competition has driven costs lower. There is more choice and planes are newer. Indians now fly more on business and more and more have discovered the delights of Goa and other coastal areas as access is possible. They all know the best deals you have to be quick to beat them and should book as much in advance as possible to get the big discounts. Go to Travel Agent, find the companies with deals and then look them up on the net.